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| Posted by Mike F. at 07:41:48 PM on Mar 9, 2010 |
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| I will sometimes use some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to do a final wipe once I get the major pieces of clay out. Just try not to separate the first half of the mold from the original. Its important not to break that seal to prevent the second pour from going in between the first pour and the original.
Mike Alumilite 800 447-9344 |
| Posted by Mike F. at 07:44:53 PM on Mar 9, 2010 |
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| Refrigerate the first mold-half with the part, let them cool way down, then the clay will stay together as you peal it away. Often moisture condenses on the cold part & silicone, let it evaporate away (warm), again, you ant to keep the part and first half-mold tight, unmoved. Spraying UMR on the part before applying the clay helps in removal also. To remove the 'Kleen-Klay' from parts, I place them in the freezer for an hour (cold shrinks everything), then 99% of the clay pulls away easily. If you have deep undercuts, pull away most of the clay from there first before freezing. I use Iso-Alcohol to slowly remove clay residue with a q-tip. |
| Posted by Glen P. at 11:38:46 AM on Mar 12, 2010 |
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| Here is an idea you can try. I got an original issue AMT Corvette Roadster with the flip open head lights. I studied this subject for several days because of the amount of under cuts this body has and the fragile area that exists in the front end. How will I remove the clay from the inside front end without the possibility of the outside silicone being pulled away? The back of the body has a good inside undercut as well. I experimented with and it worked was to take a cheap food storage bag, cut a small piece . I pressed the plastic in front of the body and then the clay in behind it. I was careful how the plastic fit in making certain it was flat to the inside surface. I then left the edge of the plastic visible upon removing the other clay I put in behind that. I was able to grab the plastic with a tweezer and remove it without much difficulty and no clay residue to remove. Another good thing to do is put a layer of silicone on the body and inspect to make certain that taillight openings and other detail do not have a bubble next to it and then proceed with boxing it in and pouring silicone over it. I did get a small bubble in the undercut where the license plate goes. I ended up adding silicone to that area of detail in the mold to do some repair. It's not perfect, but the part that glues in over it covers it too. |
| Posted by Greg W. at 02:38:00 PM on May 8, 2010 |
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| Greg,
Good idea, think I will give it a shot. I hear all kinds of ways that people have tried to eliminate the clay residue and the time consuming process of removing clay from a car body. By far and large that is the most tedious part of making a mold for me.
Greg on the other posting you did about the link for a two piece mold, would you be so kind as to send me the link to review at world@alumilite.com?
Thank You,
Carol
800-447-9344 |
| Posted by Carol W. at 09:38:02 AM on May 13, 2010 |
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